Downham Market blogger on malbecs, rosé and reds, in Lynn News Wine O’Clock

Wine O’Clock by Giles Luckett, July 25

Hello! I’ve been spending some time with an old friend over the last couple of weeks.

One that I find endlessly diverting, mercurial, and hugely satisfying company. I am, of course, talking about Malbec, a wonderfully versatile grape, that’s capable of surprises, as I discovered.

First up, a rosé. With its moderate acidity, deeply coloured skins and plentiful fruit, Malbec makes excellent rosé as the Artesano de Argento Organic Malbec Rosé (Sainsbury’s £10) shows. Schoolgirl blushes pink, the nose combines plums, strawberry, and cherry notes with a dash of floral fragrance. In the mouth, it’s light and vibrant, but as you sip so, the flavour builds, and lovely tones of blackberry and mint come through. A great wine for summer sipping.

Next, a wine that took me by surprise – it didn’t jump out of a cupboard or anything – but I wasn’t expecting to enjoy a white Malbec. Mainly as I didn’t know white Malbec was a thing. It is, and based on the Trivento White Malbec (Morrisons, £6.50) it’s a good thing too.

Almost all grapes give white juice, the colour comes from skin contact post-pressing. Fresh yet nutty on the nose, the palate is dominated by apple, pear, kiwi, and citrus, but there’s an undertow of cherry and almond savouriness that adds complexity and interest. This would be great with seafood, green salads, or lemon chicken.

And so, to the reds. My first is a bit of a cheat as it’s not a varietal Malbec, but given how good it is, I’m hoping my editor will let it in. It’s the Viñalba 'Reserve' Malbec-Touriga Nacional (Majestic £10.99). Touriga Nacional is a grape closely associated with Port, and it brings a fantastic richness and weight to this blend.

Intensely flavoured, there’s everything from black and blueberries to prunes, herbs, spices, bitter chocolate, and minerals contained in this big, firm wine. A great wine for barbecued food, it’s at its best with food and will stand up to even spicy dishes brilliantly.

My last choice is my first choice when it comes to Malbec, it’s the Wine Society’s Exhibition Malbec (£12.50). I long ago lost count of how many vintages I’ve had of this – I know it’s more than ten and less than eight seven – and it’s never failed to please. The 2021 is wonderfully dark, saturated, plump, and ripe.

Jam-packed with stewed black fruits with highlights of raspberries and strawberries, set against a backdrop of vanilla, charcoal, and spices. Give it several hours open, and serve with roasted red meats, roasted vegetables – it’s brilliant with butternut squash – or your favourite hard cheese.

Next time out, I’ll look at some summer reds to chill while you chill.